The Pies We Ate

This is the microwaved version the next day. Pie crust is a little too thick!

Oh, how I envy the Obamas for their choice of summer retreat! Three years ago, my sister, Christine, and I spent our summer vacation with our good friend Allie and her family on Martha’s Vineyard [for the European reader: Martha’s Vineyard is a small island right off Cape Cod that has become renowned in recent years for its illustrious vacationers. Sort of like an American Sylt. It is not actually a vineyard, nor does it produce wine, I think.]

Somewhere between The Great Gatsby and Anne of Green Gables, the island charmed me with its enchanted forests, its long beaches, and its 5 o’clock cocktails served on the patio. I loved that we made bread every day, I loved that the Brudneys think that when on the Vineyard, one should barbecue every day. I loved getting our groceries at Morning Glory and our fish (well, for some of us) at Larsen’s Fish Market. And I loved the pies we ate! We bought them from a little road stand somewhere on the island and carefully transported them home, where we would relish them with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. As the fork cracked through the flaky, salty pie crust, it would reveal the deep purple blueberry nectarine filling. Soon, the filling would form a blissful union with the vanilla ice cream on our spoons, the steaming heat of the blueberries gently transforming the ice cream into a creamy heap of bubbles. We were in heaven.

We had found our quest: to make the perfect pie crust! Thankfully, the West Tisbury library carried a copy of Baking with Julia. And indeed, the book contains a recipe for – the perfect pie crust! We tested it immediately, but our results were unsatisfactory. So we returned the book and bought another pie from the road stand.

Three years later, as the Obamas are vacationing on the Vineyard, I was craving blueberry nectarine pie. I think it’s unfair that Barack and Michelle should be in a place where they can get the perfect pie while I am sitting here, alone in my apartment, as the enchanted forests and sandy beaches are fading into distant memories. So I baked myself back to the Vineyard, home of the heavenly pies. I gave Julia – who in this recipe is represented by Leslie Mackie – another chance. And low and behold, I think she is right; she does have the perfect pie crust – just the right mixture between flakiness (achieved by the vegetable shortening) and flavor (achieved by the butter). The blueberry nectarine filling is, dare I say it, every bit as good as the heavenly Vineyard pie. And that was a pretty high standard.

The secret to achieving the perfect filling is to cook half of it on the stovetop first and then mix it with the rest of the fruit. That way, you can be sure that you have the right balance of sugar and lemon juice and zest. The European that I am, I reduced the amount of sugar that the recipe asks for and threw in a little extra lemon juice and zest. You do need a pie pan for this recipe; I would not necessarily recommend a springform pan. If you use a Euro-sized pie pan (like a tart pan), I would suggest doubling the recipe. It yielded just enough filling for my nine-inch pie pan.

Make the pie crust ahead of time so you can give the dough enough time to chill. It is crucial that all ingredients be chilled; the cooler your kitchen and your hands, the better. I actually (I have to give myself genius points for this!) put the metal bowl that I used in the freezer first. The pie can also be made ahead of time and then frozen, which I actually did and was very happy with the result.

So ladies and gentleman, without further ado, I present unto you: A Martha’s Vineyard Blueberry Nectarine Pie!

Martha’s Vineyard Blueberry Nectarine Pie

The Perfect Pie Crust (adapted from Leslie Mackie’s recipe, Baking With Julia)

(Plan enough time to chill the dough for at least an hour before using it)

2 ½ cups all-purpose flour (250g)

½ tablespoon salt

1/3 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into very small pieces (85g)

2/3 cup solid vegetable shortening, chilled (Kokosfett, 155g)

½ cup ice water

Keep all the ingredients refrigerated until you actually need them, and use your hands as little as possible. If you do use your hands, wash them with cold water first! You want as cool a work environment as possible.

Step 1: Mix the flour and the salt together in a large bowl. Add the butter, using a fork and a knife to cut the butter into the flour until the mixture looks like coarse crumbs.

Step 2: Add the solid vegetable shortening (Kokosfett) and again, using a fork and a knife, cut the crumbs into the flour mixture, cutting smaller and smaller crumbs until they blend well. Then add the ice water and use your (cool) hands to knead it just until the dough has taken shape and the shortening is completely blended into the dough. This should not take longer than one minute. Refrigerate for at least one hour.

Step 1: Cut the butter, then the shortening into the flour

Step 2: Add the water

Mix with your cold hands, but not too long

Refrigerate for at least an hour!

The filling (adapted from Baking With Julia)

3 cups fresh blueberries (400g)

2 cups sliced nectarines (about 3 large nectarines)

½ cup sugar

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

large pinch of grated lemon zest

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1 large egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon cold water (for egg wash)

Crystal or turbinado sugar, for sprinkling

Step 1: Put half of the fruit in a medium saucepan. Over medium heat, add the sugar, flour, lemon zest and lemon juice and bring the mixture to a soft boil, stirring constantly. The liquid will thicken and will turn into a purple mixture.

Add the remaining fruit, and add lemon juice, lemon zest and sugar if needed. Let cool.

Step 2: Cut the pie dough in half and roll one half out on a lightly floured work surface. If you are using a 9-inch pie pan, you want the circle to be about 11 inches. Fit the crust into the pie pan and refrigerate again. Roll out the other half for the top crust.

Step 3: Spoon the cooled filling into the pie shell, top with the unsalted butter. Lift the rolled-out circle of dough onto the pie (Leslie Mackie suggests – this is some of the best baking advice I have ever gotten – to fold the dough into quarters, transfer it to the top of the pie, and the unfold it). Press the tines of a fork against the edges of the pie.

Step 4: Paint the crust with the egg wash and sprinkle with a little crystal or turbinado sugar. Cut 4 to 6 slits in the crust and chill for about 20 minutes.

Step 5: Place the pie in the center of a preheated oven (375°F or 175°C) and bake for 40 to 50 minutes. Let cool for at least 30 minutes before you cut the crust to give it time to set.

You can easily freeze the pie for up to a month before baking it! You will have to bake the frozen pie about 10 minutes longer.

Bon appétit!